travel

2018 in a flash

2018 has been a blur, tbh. i’ve been pretty occupied at work and it looks like 2019 is going to shape up to be very similar. i will commit to sharing some posts for 2018, because there certainly were highlights. here’s a shortlist:

  • Dallas/Denton, TX

    • food, people, #dentoning

  • Miami, FL

    • wynwood, cuban coffee, beach

  • Chicago, IL

    • museums, the bean, whatcha talking about willis (tower)

  • Atlanta, GA

    • on the set with the avengers, whale shark, botanical gardens

  • Virginia Falls, VA

    • air and space museum, mt. vernon, nandos

  • Kyoto & Tokyo, Japan

  • Los Angeles, CA

    • universal studios, skyspace, and congrats “Dr. M”!

  • And of course: The BTS Love Yourself Tour in Oakland

pictures to come!

iceland 2017

Greetings all! I just returned from a ~10 day Winter Journey to kick of 2017. My destinations: Reykjavik, Iceland and Amsterdam, Netherlands with a quick day-trip to Brussels, Belgium. I put together this blog to share with you a snippet of my journey and to hopefully provide you with some tips, tricks, and inspirations to plan your trip. To keep it a bit more succinct, I'm splitting this up into two parts: Part 1: Iceland (see below) and Part 2: Amsterdam + Brussels. If you're not interested in Iceland and want to see Amsterdam & Brussels, feel free to skip to Part 2 (to be posted soon). You can also view the photoblog or the panoramics collection for some updated images from this trip (along with other destinations).

Also, as a quick disclaimer, I am in no way associated with any of the blogs or vendors linked below. I have no affiliation and do not receive any compensation. I am only writing to share my personal experience. 

Part 1: Iceland - the Land of Fire and Ice

Cute building in Reykjavik

Cute building in Reykjavik

OK Hotel - quirkly lil place where you enter into a restuarant, check yourself in, and get a funky themed room (mine was the encyclopedia room?)

OK Hotel - quirkly lil place where you enter into a restuarant, check yourself in, and get a funky themed room (mine was the encyclopedia room?)

Oh, Iceland! This is an experience that you didn't know needed to be on your bucket list. At first glance, you might think it'll be too cold and too miserable during the winter to go to Iceland. Well, you'd only be half-right. During the winter season, average temperatures in Iceland dips to approximately 0 degrees C (32 F). In addition, the sun is only out for approximately 4-6 hours, if it comes out at all. But it's during this season that you get to experience a winter wonderland. Iceland in its full elements is brutally breathtaking. The long glowing sunrises and sunsets, the snowflakes dancing in the brisk fresh air, the cold chill in your bones. All reasons to see this unworldly island.  So let's get started!

Flights. There are a few options including WOW Air, Icelandair, British Airways, and a few others.  For my trip, I decided to take WOW Air, a discount (I'll have a separate post regarding flying with WOW and for the logistics for KEF coming up soon). Flights arrive in KEF, a pretty no-fuss airport as far as arrivals go. From here it's a 40 min bus ride to Reykjavik. There are a few bus options including FlyBus (what I took), GrayLine Tours, or a taxi (note that taxi fares in Iceland is quite high - I'd avoid this unless you don't have any other options). If you must take a taxi I recommend this company, Hreyfill Taxi. They have an app which makes it easy to get a cab without having to try to say/spell out the addresses. (No Uber or Lyft as of Jan 2017). 

Icelandic Hot Dog Stand! They love their hot dogs here. The wait at this stand can get up to 30-40 minutes! 

Icelandic Hot Dog Stand! They love their hot dogs here. The wait at this stand can get up to 30-40 minutes! 

Lodging. There are tons of hotels in Reykjavik and its surrounding suburbs. However, the cheaper ones tends to be smaller boutiques or are quite hostel-like. I'd suggest a centrally located hotel in Reykjavik (this is where all the tour companies pick up/drop off from) that allows you to walk around without having to take a taxi given how expensive they are. There are a lot of Airbnbs listed as well, however, I found that many of them are fairly new and are situated a bit outside the city center. I think that as time goes by. 

Food, Drinks, and Spending. No shortage of options here. Just be aware, cost of food and drink in Iceland is quite high. You won't find a liquor store around, and the bars charge a high premium on alcohol. I suggest going dry or if you want, many people bought alcohol from the duty free store prior to leaving the airport. Also, bring a water bottle to fill. The water in Iceland is super pure. In some locations, it has a slight smell of sulfur (natural), but it'll save you a lot of money on bottled water. 

What to Wear.  In Iceland, dress for comfort and safety. Function must come before fashion, please. You want to enjoy your visit. Being cold or unprepared for the elements will greatly hamper that experience. There are a few blogs that can give you a lot of tips on what to bring including these: I heart Reykjavik or Nomadic Matt.

But in short, you'll want the following basics.  (Note: End of season sales may be your friend. Check out the Outlets, REI, and other end-of-season clearances for these items!)

  • Shoes - get good winter boots! You'll need comfortable, warm, sturdy, waterproof boots. No, your Uggs will not work even if you spray them with waterproofing spray. I have to say this because I saw way too many people with Ugg-like boots and you'll just end up with damp, frozen feet and be miserable. For boots, I recommend checking out REI, Zappos, or even Sierra Trading Company.  Try them on (I tried and returned 6 pairs of boots before settling on these -- note - these go on sale at various retailers throughout the year). Sneakers/tennis shoes also not recommended. I saw many people with rubber crampons to keep from slipping on the ice, though I didn't use them myself. I also brought more casual waterproof boot, also by Sorel. In the end, I likely only needed to bring 1 but it was nice to have an alternate. 
  • Socks - invest in some good wool and/or technical hiking socks. These will generally run in the range of $12-20 a pair. They should be thick, but be sure they're not too thick for your boots (if they are, you may need to size up in your boots.) You'll want at least 2-3 pairs (you can rotate and hand wash/hang dry). You can also get the Costco wool sock pack as backup though I didn't find them quite warm enough for the long trekking days. On one night, my toes were bone cold at the end of the night. No beuno.
  • Base layers - warm wool base layers that go under everything. Shirts and pants. I went for the 32 Degree brand one at Costco because they're 1/4 the cost of the "high-end" ones. I think they were ok, but I did find myself having to bulk up on outer layers. I also had a warmer lined base layer set from Under Armor. I found these warm, but a bit too bulky. You want to be able to have a good range of motion depending on the activity you'll be doing that day. In retrospect, investing in 1-2 good sets from REI may have been best. 
  • Jacket - waterproof and windproof. The 3-in-1's were quite good - these are 2 jackets; a wind/waterproof outer and a fleece or down inner layer that can be worn separately or zipped together as 1 functional jacket. I got mine on sale during a holiday weekend at the Columbia Outlet for around $100. Probably the best deal I got. You can also find these on sale at North Face Outlet though I found they have very limited sizes and have some wild color combos. I had to use mine together for the entire trip - it never got warm enough to remove a single layer. :) If you want to dress like the locals, they generally have gear from Canada Goose, 66 North, or Cintamani. All of these are high-end and/or local Icelandic brands and will cost you a pretty penny, but they're stylish and are specifically built for this weather. 
  • Pants - I brought 1 snow pants (ski pants) for hiking/outdoors day, 1 pair of lined jeans from Eddie Bauer, 1 technical hiking pants (didn't wear these) and 2 pairs of regular jeans.
  • Shirts - Warm thick flannels and fleeces went over my base layer.  Wool 1/2 zips worked really well and are preferred to the flannels, IMO.
  • Accessories - Beanies, scarves, gloves. Wool, lined, and water-resistant. I used these to try to be more colorful… but wasn't too successful here. 
  • Other Gear - My mirrorless camera (Sony alpha a6000) and my trusty iPhone 7 Plus with a Loopy Case

Things to Do in Iceland (Reykjavik/South & West Coast) 

Ah, this is what you were waiting for! There are so many activities in Iceland, even in the wintertime. And, if you go during Christmas/New Years, things get really festive! One thing to note about going in the wintertime is that since there is only 4-6 hours of sunlight, you're racing against nightfall every day, so plan accordingly. 

Day 1: Travel Day - SFO to KEF. Direct flights from SFO to Keflavik International Airport - Iceland's Main International Airport took approximately 9 hours. I thought I was going to see the Northern Lights on this flight.. but I didn't. :( Anyways, after an uneventful flight, I landed in Iceland around 5-6 am local time the following day (New Year's Eve). I checked in to the hotel, refreshed a bit and off to explore the city and find some food!

Day 2: New Year's Eve in Reykjavik: Bonfires and Fireworks: Ok. WOW. I have never experienced a NYE quite like this. It is pretty extraordinary. The city is bustling with tourists getting ready for the evening's festivities. Many of the shops are open in the city, but have limited hours. You can check this site out Visit Reykjavik, the official city visitor's guide to see holiday hours. (Side note: this was also a good site for other planning needs). 

Throughout the day, there are various activities. One of the biggest thing I saw was the New Years Eve run. People dress up in costumes and celebrate the end of the year. The race starts at the Harpa Concert Hall and there was a lot of energy and excitement.  Beyond that, most locals are home with families and resting up for the evening. Starting around 5-6 pm, people will have an early dinner and watch some local televised show (I forget the name). For visitors, make sure you have dinner reservations well in advance unless you are ok with hot dogs or sandwiches. Some restaurants are closed and some of the fancier places book about 2 months out! You can try going in without reservations but mostly, they'll just send you away and tell you to try again later. The Perlan offers a great NYE Buffet, but prices are high. They are also one of the sites you can view fireworks from (it sits elevated right outside city center). If you're staying a big hotel chain, many of them will have NYE packages. After dinner, head to one of the many bonfires  (brenna) around the site! You can scope out a site here. I ended up walking (oy!) to the one on Ægisíða street in Vesturbær neighborhood (closest to city center and just west of where I was) but probably should have taken a cab given the sub-zero degree temperatures that particular evening. But getting there was worth it as it was a great atmosphere. Families are there enjoying the warmth of the fire, some people sing, others light up some fireworks and as an added bonus… the Aurora came out for a visit! After the bonfire, head back into the city and stake out your site site to view the fireworks for the remainder of the night. If you have access to a tall balcony or some place with an elevated vantage, that'll be great. Otherwise, just head into the city. Some popular viewing sites around town are: Hallgrímskirkja, Perlan, and Harpa (I ended up at Hallgrímskirkja). Then hang out, keep warm and enjoy hours of entertainment. There is no official fireworks countdown in Iceland. Instead, during this week, the ban on fireworks is lifted and people can buy fireworks to benefit ICE-SAR the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue. Locals purchase these and light up the night sky. At about 8 pm, you'll see the first few fireworks in the sky. As you get closer to midnight, the intensity and frequency increases until about 11:45 pm, you'll get a solid show that lasts for an hour or so. The last fireworks didn't stop until approximately 3-4 am.  Here's an awesome video of NYE 2017 (not made by me). Around 1 am, the bars open up and people party throughout the night. I opted to hop in a cab and head back to rest (by this time it was a 36+ hour day for me). There are a few "bar tours" that you can search for but again, alcohol comes at a very high premium in Iceland. Party wisely. 

Fireworks and bonfire! 

Fireworks and bonfire! 

Ringing in the New Year at Hallgrímskirkja

Ringing in the New Year at Hallgrímskirkja

Laugavegur - Main Shopping Street and location of the OK Hotel

Laugavegur - Main Shopping Street and location of the OK Hotel

Quirky street art <3

Quirky street art <3

Harpa Concert Hall&nbsp;

Harpa Concert Hall 

Day 3: New Year's Day: I spent New Year's Day recovering from the NYE festivities and ended up walking around the city, exploring Downtown Reykjavik to explore the museums, shops and the Harpa Concert Hall. This was a pretty low key day. Many of the shops were open, but there are a handful closed on New Years Day - be sure to check out the previous link from Visit Reykjavik to ensure things are open.

 In hindsight, I probably could have squeezed in Blue Lagoon this day, but it was a difficult choice given the limited daylight. I wanted to see the city during the day and taking the time to go out to the Blue Lagoon and return would have cost me 1/2 the day. Other things to consider: a walking food tour, headed out to the local malls, or a visit to Keflavík, a town in the Reykjanes region in southwest Iceland (where the airport is). 

Day 4: Glaciers & Waterfalls: The South Coast Tour & Glacier Walk: I wanted to see the Icelandic South Coast and also wanted to get up close and personal with a glacier. Luckily, there was a tour that did exactly this. There are plenty of tour companies out there, but I booked through Artic Adventures.  On this particular tour, we got to do the following: view the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, stop and explore the Reynisfjara black sand beach, hike the Sólheimajökull glacier, stop at Skógafoss waterfall (nighttime), and view the Eyjafjallajökull glacier/volcano and Hekla volcano. Tour included pick up from the hotel and lasted about 12 hours from pick up to drop off.  We were given a 30 minute window for pick up from 7:30-8:00 am. We got out to the front door at 7:29 am and voila! The bus was waiting for us (they're not joking around, granted, we were the first pick up). After a few more stops to pick up other guests, we were taken to the GrayLine Tours hub to meet up with other guest and transfer to a larger bus. (We heard they combined a few groups that had to be rescheduled with ours because of weather issues a few days back.) Anyways, once on the big warm bus, we got settled into our seats and headed out. There were a few long stretches but plenty of pit stops with facilities and food/drinks. We brought our own food we purchased the day before... but grabbed some snacks anyways. At each stop, we were told how long we had to explore... usually between 30-60 minutes before we had to be back on the bus. For the most part, this worked (we had 1 pair who mis-heard the time and were seconds from inadvertently being left behind.). 

Hiking Sólheimajökull - while the tour info said this was an easy hike, I personally felt it was more moderate than easy. Perhaps it was because we were there on a rainy day.  When we arrived on site, we were greeted by several guides who promptly split us up into small groups and started to fit us for harnesses, metal crampons, and an ice pick. After everyone was properly geared and checked, we started on a 20-minute hike to the edge of the glacier. This part was admittedly the most difficult part for me. I think it was the awkwardness of trying to walk with metal spikes over rocks holding an ice pick while chasing after a 6' tall Icelandic guide as he casually glides his way up the path. :P Anyways, after that, it was a slow ascent up the glacier stopping along the way at unique spots while the guide informed us of the very special history and features of the glacier. When we reached the highest spot we were going to for the day, we paused to take it all in (and to take 1000s of selfies) then it was on our way down the glacier safely. (Our guide's advice.. bend the knees, straddle your stance… essential (in his words) walk like Snoop Dogg :D) The guides were so friendly, knowledgeable, and patient. And the views, unbeatable. We got down from the glacier in the nick of time as darkness and heavy rain overtook the glacier. 

Quick note: if you are going to hike a glacier, please do so with a trained guide and with proper gear (hiking shoes, not tennis shoes!). 

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall

Mountains right around Skogafoss Waterfall&nbsp;

Mountains right around Skogafoss Waterfall 

Basalt columns &amp; cave opening at the Black Sand Beach in Vik

Basalt columns & cave opening at the Black Sand Beach in Vik

On the hike up, looking down the glacier

On the hike up, looking down the glacier

Crampons (our tour guide called them "crutons" lol) and Ice Picks for an easy hike?!??

Crampons (our tour guide called them "crutons" lol) and Ice Picks for an easy hike?!??

Henrik, our awsome Icelandic glacier guide! :P

Henrik, our awsome Icelandic glacier guide! :P

End of the hike

End of the hike

Day 5: Golden Circle Tour and Snorkeling: Again, the tour I took was a two-part tour. You can generally find Golden Circle Tours on its own, but I wanted to add Snorkeling… so ended up with this combo through Guide to Iceland.  This tour is a 9-10 hour tour that takes you through Þingvellir (Thingvellir) National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), a stop at Silfra to snorkel between the North American and European tectonic plates, another stop at the geothermic valley of Haukadalur to see several geysers (hot springs) and finally, at Gulfoss waterfall before returning to Reykjavik.

The tour logistics was pretty similar to the previous tour. We were given a window for pick-up but waited about 15-20 minutes this time. This time, we were in a mini-bus with about 14-15 guests total - a much more intimate affair. Our guide, Elka, picked us up, drove the van, did the narration, and took care of the logistics. We headed into Thingvellir and stopped to see the sunrise. Then to Silfra to snorkel before headed to Haukadular and finally Gulfoss. There was plenty of time at each location, with the most time being spent at Silfra. (Side note: if you do this trip, eat a good breakfast. We did not break for lunch until around 2-3 pm - after snorkeling and most people were starving. Again we brought our own sandwiches, but our stop at Haukadulur had a nice restaurant and gift shop). We were very lucky that the sun came out on this day for us to enjoy snorkeling and to capture some great images of Iceland. It was the perfect way to end the trip.

Sunset at Strokkur

Sunset at Strokkur

Gulfoss Waterfall&nbsp;

Gulfoss Waterfall 

So sexy. This is before the freezing cold water and puffy lips (see below).&nbsp;

So sexy. This is before the freezing cold water and puffy lips (see below). 

Snorkeling Silfra - so, snorkeling in Iceland in January. I was skeptical, but I saw that it could be done, and I couldn't pass up the opportunity to snorkel in this great site, Silfra. Silfra is a crack between the North American and Eurasian continents and has crystal clear water. The day I went on this tour, the sun came out (yay!) which made for a beautiful backdrop. Upon arriving to the site, we were fitted into dry suits that took about 30-40 minutes to put on because they needed to be sealed properly to ensure it's water tight. Once on, they make everyone look like a ridiculous sexy seal and pinched at all the openings (hands, feet, neck, face). The wait to get in the water was longer than expected - approximately 60 minutes. However, when it was time to get in the water, it was fantastic! The water was cold, but you forget that quickly as you float for 30-40 minutes peering into the clear water into the blue/green landscape. While the slight current will take you where you need to go, there is a bit of navigation to be done to make sure you don't stray too far out. It's a once in a lifetime experience that you can soon forget. If you're comfortable in the water - this is a must do, IMO. 

Other things to do (I didn't get to do these :( , but hear they're highly recommended):

  • Blue Lagoon or other Geothermal Pools - these are a hit or miss depending on who you ask. Many reviewers love Blue Lagoon, though some say it is overpriced and crowed. Almost all say that it is worth the experience as it is so unique. I opted not to do this due to time constraints and opted for Snorkeling Silfra instead. In retrospect, I probably should have squeezed in a trip - although, it is a 30-40 minute drive outside of Reykjavik and you'd end up taking up a good chunk of time.
  • Ice Caves - I really wanted to go into an ice cave, but ultimately, I didn't book in time to secure the date I needed. Ultimately, I went on the Glacier Walk instead.
  • Icelandic Horse Park - OMG! SO CUTE! These horses (don't call them ponies) are a breed that was developed in Iceland. They're smaller horses with beautiful manes. They're supposedly very friendly, too. I wanted to take a picture of one, but our guide noted that the farmers do not like tourists going up to private properties and touching their animals and taking pictures through the gates. So, if you're interested, please be respectful and go through an official tour or group to visit with these beautiful creatures. 
  • Northern Lights Tour - official Aurora season in Iceland is October through March. I hear that the earlier and later in the season you go, the better due to weather (less cloud cover) but there are no guarantees you'll catch this. Most tour groups will give you a refund if you don't see it. I was able to see it on NYE in the city - it just so happened that the Aurora came out when I was at a bonfire.
  • The rest of the Island! If you have the time and resources, try a longer 3-4 day journey or fly to the other sites on the island. There are plenty of volcanoes, geothermic pools and other eye-popping sites. 
  • Last note: check TripAdvisor and other rating sites before committing to tours. You'll find that many companies ultimately working together anyways, however, there are some newer ones out there that are not so great (there is one that includes a glacier "visit" but doesn't allow guests to go on the glacier due to insurance reasons). Ultimately, travel is a finicky thing... do your research and have a great time!